The final chapter......Peru!

GEORGE: I'm in such a fluster that this is the last posting, I can't think where to start! Of course I can really. I'm just being dramatic!

Right, just for the record, we missioned it on a 27 hour bus journey from Guaquille in Ecuador to Lima, the capital of Peru. Our final country. (Have I already said that? Impact!) But we did not hang around in Lima....oh no!

ALEX: After our 'long bus journey' PB we very quickly realised that the best thing about Lima was leaving Lima - having been to several capital cities on our travels it was without doubt the most uninspiring one!

GEORGE: Our rear ends were shot to pieces, the budget blown out of the water.......so we jumped on a flight and headed to beautiful Arequipa (SE Peru in the desert) to rest for a few days.

Full of beautiful colonial architecture and squares, this was a lovely place to enjoy the sun, shops and even the odd convent!

Even Alex really enjoyed this convent. It was a small wall enclosed city that was only open to the public in the 1970's. Until then, no one knew what it was like inside, except the nuns but they never came out! And so it remained a curious mystery for so many years.

ALEX: Yes, that's right, I enjoyed a sight seeing tour of a convent - would you 'Adam and Eve it'?! Clearly an illustration of how I've grown as a person as a result of exposure to many many wonderful cultural sights around the world........

GEORGE: Have I mentioned that so far, all the avocados I have eaten in South America have been amazing?

Right, after a well deserved rest, it was time to head north east....and up, to Puno where lies Lake Titicaca. The largest and highest (I think) navigable lake in the world, stretching a 130KM across the border between Peru and Bolivia.

It was kinda cool. Now, I'm sorry if I sound cynical. And perhaps I have now just been too spoilt by so many things over the last 7 months, but Lake Titicaca is so big, I felt like I was sailing on a calm sea. This was another 'tick the box' adventure. We met a few families that live on the lake of man-made reed islands. They showed us how they were made. This was interesting but felt like such a tourist trap rather than experiencing their way of life! (Ooooo....the cynic!) Anyhoo.... and on another one of the islands they were having a colourful festival with lots of beer and dancing which was fun.

Travel tip: For all those planning a trip to Peru. Despite my negatives, it is worth going to see Lake Titicaca, but don't plan to spend longer than two days there (in fact one day is enough), as there is nothing else to do in Puno!

Anyway.....with the clock counting down, we had no time to waste and headed on to Cuzco. At an altitude of 3,400m, this is the base where people come to do the Inca trail. We actually decided to do a slightly different and less touristy route called the 'Lares trail'. It is actually slightly easier than the Inca trail (less of a continuous steep gradient), and still ends in Machu Picchu, but we actually only passed one other group over the four days! You still walk along Inca original paths though. Oh the detail, the detail!

This trip was fantastic. Stunning landscapes and physically demanding. Really physically demanding! Trekking at 4,400m I thought my chest was going to explode! Along the way, the local children always run after you in the hope of getting sweets, pencils, hair clips! They all had such red cheeks. And they wore bare feet in sandals despite it being really cold!

ALEX: What a great way to come to the end of our trip! This trek was incredible - very physical but incredible. And It was definitely my idea of camping - largely because you have a porter who puts all your stuff on the back of his horse, risks his life running ahead of you to make sure he gets to camp ahead of time, then sets up your tent (complete with mattress and pillows) and lays on a 3 course meal when you arrive at camp that evening - and all for a wage that most beggars in London would turn their nose up at! Why they scrapped the British Empire is beyond me.........

GEORGE: Each day we walked about 4 or 5 hours. And at night we camped at 3,700m in a local village. During the night the temperature dropped to -3 degrees. So we slept fully clothed and with thick sleeping bags and blankets. We were really cosy and warm. No showers on this trek!

Sorry the middle picture is on it's side. If you just turn your head to the left, you'll see the inside and kitchen area of a local home.

In the morning, our guides loaded up the horses, and we set off again.










We had an international group and everyone got on really well. This picture was taken when we reached the 4,400m pass.

We were lucky enough to be invited into one of the local schools in the area. We went into one of the classrooms and hung out with the over excited kids which was great! Of course it cost us sweets, pencils and hair clips! And they loved having their photos taken.

I was trying to read and pronounce their ridiculously long words which they found hysterical. I can't remember what their language is called!

ALEX: Having left school some time ago, the girls took pity on George and ran her through the complexities of nuclear physics.

GEORGE: After about 30 minutes and enough distraction we kept going until we reached the next town for lunch and football. 'Peru' v's 'The rest of the world!'

It was a close high scoring game with 'The rest of the world' winning 8-7.

ALEX: Now I'll be the first to admit that I'm not the fittest guy in the world but you try running round like an idiot for an hour, playing a sport you haven't played for 10 years (in hiking boots) at altitude. Needless to say no offers of a contract with any of the big clubs emerged.

GEORGE: I hung out with the cheer leaders and eyed up all the good looking players!

Our final stop was Machu Picchu. The lost city of the Incas. We were up at 5:30am with hoards of tourists to get up the mountain and appreciate the sights before the 10:30am train arrived carrying far too many more tourists to mention.

Because I keep using the same adjectives....'stunning', 'amazing' and 'beautiful'. I'm not going to write too much here. You can just look at the pictures!

ALEX: Indeed you can - this place was amazing. One bit of local knowledge is that if you want to climb Waynapichu (the big peak that overlooks the site), head there first as they only let in 400 people per day and by 8.30am the gates to the path were closed.

ALEX: Difficult to tell from the pictures, but this is the view of the site and surrounding area from the top of Waynapichu.

GEORGE: I know the below looks like a ridiculous postcard shot, but the lamas really were there!

Us with our gorgeous guide Paull.

At the end of a true highlight (hee..hee) of our trip....we got the train back to Cuzco.....

where Alex and I came down with colds, were aching all over, so needed to chill for a few days. Sorry, not many pictures here.

Then a 20 hr bus ride to Nazca, to see the Nazca Lines. Our final sight seeing stop.

What we were not expecting was the earthquake which happened about 9 hours after our arrival at 6:45pm. It was so scary. We were on the first floor of an internet cafe when we were plunged into darkness and the whole building started shaking. The noise of moving metal and concrete is the scariest bit. We fumbled our way out of the building and ran into the open square where we stood whilst the earth carried on shaking beneath us. It was such a horrible experience. The epicentre was 200km north in Ica and Pisco. Unfortunately these old towns with old buildings are not built to withstand earthquakes and were pretty much flattened. Anyway, I guess you all saw the news. The aftershocks carried on for about 24 hours.

Despite the chaos and lack of electricity, the next morning we were up in a small airplane by 8:15am to look down on the mysterious Nazca Lines. Huge geometric lines spread over 500km squared.

If you look closely at the picture on the right you might be able to make out a 'humming bird'. There are lots of theories behind the existence of these lines, which you will find on 'wikipedia' I'm sure.

ALEX: With only days to go and having just survived an earthquake we still managed to squeeze some more fun in.

GEORGE: After delays we finally managed to get back to Lima. The main road we needed, passed through Ica and Pisco. There were 1 metre cracks down the centre of the road and at time the opposite traffic was 1 metre higher than we were! Nuts!

ALEX: We should also mention that in South America when a bridge is out of action due to an earthquake, there is no need to worry because although your journey will be delayed, the bus will simply drive down to the river the bridge crosses, drive through the river and then up the other side - wallop!

GEORGE: Safely back in Lima we celebrated the end of our 7 month AMAZING adventure with champagne in a posh hotel! Nice!

(I know I keep talking about us going to places to relax, which probably sounds ridiculous, but from Lima we went to stay with my family in LA for a week........to relax!)

ALEX: Three words - God Bless America. We're off to relax which means 200 inch plasma screens, 14 meals a day, 4x4s bigger than most commercial jets, the zenith of customer service ("have a nice day!"), skinny double shot caramel mocha frappucino's with eggs over easy, a side of wheat free, low carb sour dough bread, and most importantly of all - guns in your glove box.

GEORGE: My closing speech: Thank you all for following our blog and adventures over the last 7 months. And for all the emails we have received throughout. It has all been incredible. Thanks to my friends and family for all their support... I love you all (said in an American accent)! Big thank you to Alex for everything. Wallop!

ALEX: My closing speech: Thank you George for forcing the issue on this conversational approach to the blog which after 7 months I will admit does work (well, I think it does anyway). Thanks also for coming with me because it's been amazing and finally thank you for for being brave enough to say yes! Hope you've all enjoyed it guys, looking forward to seeing you all soon.

GEORGE: (oh my God....is it really all over? So soon?)

Ecuador and the Galapagos

GEORGE: Heavens.....this is the penultimate post. 'Noooooo' I hear you cry! But please don't fret. It's not over just yet....so lets get on with the story!

As we flew into Quito, the capital, Ecuador's landscape was stunning. From a vast dramatic mountainous landscape to really green hills and valleys, as far as the eye could see. I haven't seen such a diverse and impressive landscape from the air.

I'm not sure I capture it in this picture, but it seemed approprite to include to suit the story!

Quito itself......as I have just said, is impressive from the air. But once inside the city, the word 'pollution' immediatly hits....your nose. It is really bad. The Old Town is quite attractive, but we mainly hung out in the new town where there were great cafes and restaurants.

Anyway...I have to move on quickly to our trip to the Galapagos. Because this really was an incredible, once in a lifetime experience! G and A become one with nature......

Below is our boat, The Encantarda. Looks good from a distance doesn't it? A sailing motor boat. A nice rainbow in the background. But actually, the Encantarda was knackered! We just managed to finish our trip before it went out of service for repairs....so we were lucky.

ALEX: When we first arrived we were taken by dingy to our boat and motored past all of these huge, plush boats and finally the Encantada came into view, hiding sheepishly behind them all! It's seen (much) better days but it was home and we had a good time.

(GEORGE: Please note: A couple we met went to the Galapagos on an 8 day tour for their honeymoon. But their boat broke down after four days, so their trip was cancelled and they were sent home...just like that! No replacement boat. How gutted would you be? This is quite common though so be warned future travellers.)

GEORGE: So, the set up of our trip so you can all picture the scene; large breakfast, morning visit to an island, back to the boat for large lunch, afternoon visit to island with snorkelling, back to boat for large dinner and finally navigate at night - everyone is FAT and happy!

Day one - my sea legs gave way to nausia at approximtely 1pm. But onwards and upwards....

ALEX: Always a good start. Fortunately my time in the SBS prevented this condition affecting me....

GEORGE: Below is our main man. Our guide 'Juan' - born and bred on the Galapagos. He was like a terrifying army officer who requested 'our co-oporation' 10 times a day, hated tourists and loved the wildlife.!!!!!!! But we liked him.

ALEX: SIR YES SIR!

GEORGE: There are a few things I didn't realise about the Galapagos. Just how far apart all the islands are (spread over about 200KM), how dramatically diverse all the islands are and finally, how unobtrusive you feel as a short stay visitor to the wildlife. After hoards of tourists have visiteed the islands over the years, they all seem pretty non plused now. Even the birds. Juan said they view us as animals, so I felt OK about the whole thing. Alex behaved like an animal!

ALEX: That last statement has no truth in it whatsoever.

When visiting the islands you always have to stay with your group and within the limits of the path.

ALEX: And if you don't, Juan will have you doing 50 push ups before you can say "oh look, it's a blue footed booby"

GEORGE: Perhaps I shouldn't say too much for those of you who intend to visit. So I'll just give snippits. And show you pictures of most of the wildlife we saw.

Tonnes of seal lions who were so cute. Despite the revolting belching noise they make.

Alex: I have finally found an animal to blame 'bodily noises' on. "George, we're getting a pet sea lion....."

Look boys, a sea lion using a stone as a pillow - how cute?

My favourite....a blue footed boobie!

.... and a masked boobie and a red footed boobie.

Below is me standing in a lava tunnel! Now, I'm not sure if you'd like me to go into the science of how these are formed, but...I can't be bothered and I'm sure using logic, you can work it out. But they are extremly impressive. For those who have never been in a lava tunnel, you'll have to take my word for it, as I appreciate you can see f*** all in this photo!

Tonnes of ugly Iguanas

Ummm...Alex!
I'm sure you can recognise all these animals, so I'm going to stop spelling them out for you.

Below is 'Lonesome George'....the last one of his kind left in the world!

ALEX: He's approx 90 years old and the turtle sanctury are having real problems getting him to mate with female tutles. I suggested to our guide that they should try dressing up the female tutles to try and excite him a little. If it works, the world will have me to thank for continuing his blood line......

GEORGE: The colours on this island were beautiful. We visited it for sunrise.

And the 'G and A photography' prize goes to Mr Alex Weaving, who snapped this amazing shot of Frigate birds and a Boobie, fighting over food.

Ummm.... a crab.....eating what looks to be another crab!

ALEX: That's right ladies, it's me in a wetsuit! I was taking a break from filming my latest motion picture 'Only Alex Weaving can save us now' Take a minute and your heart rates will soon return to normal.......

GEORGE: Everyday there was amazing snorkeling. I have never seen such a variety of sealife, all of which you are normally less then 3 meters from; sea lions, sea turtles, white tip sharks, eagle rays, sting rays, yellow box fish, angel fish, parrot fish, yellow sergent fish, trigger fish.....ummm ugly fish. I could keep going, but....I want to tell you about the ultimate snorkel on the last day...

We had baby sea lions playing all around us and chasing pebbles and us - they were amazing. And when we started heading back to the boat, we looked below us to see a mahoosive school of eagle rays swimming below. I counted 40 before I gave up. It was an incredible sight. They were so close you could see all their detail so clearly. All they blue spots. Needless to say we ended our snorkeling on a massive high!

ALEX: I waited for 20 minutes to take this shot and managed to get it just right - for those of you who haven't worked it out, this is the boat's GPS system as we crossed the equator.

GEORGE: although back in Quito and exhausted, no rest for the adventurous. We went straight off to spend four long days in the Amazon rain forest. Basically I'm glad I did it, can tick the box.....a beautiful place to view from afar, but I'm just not a jungle girl! Far too many horrible large poisonous insects for me.

ALEX: The Amazon Hilton....

GEORGE: On the trek we met some 'jolly fun chaps' who became our drinking buddies once back in Quito. Fair play to Steve and Dan who took Alex's endless taunting (they were American!) on the chin!

ALEX: 'Hey Randy, this Quito is so quaint............' Top guys, thanks for a fun few days in Quito.

GEORGE: After Quito we went south to beautiful Banos where we did some AMAZING white water rafting. We then headed to the boarder of Peru..... wallop!

Uh-oh.....final chapter coming up!!!!