Incredible Indiaaaaaaaaa.......

GEORGE: Everything I've heard, read and seen of India in the past is true! It's all true!!! (And I thought Hanoi was hectic!)

India has been a colourful emotional rollercoaster......it's a love hate thing! It gives all your senses, infact your whole being, a serious workout. It's a pleasure followed by pain thing....just when you've been ripped off for the 100th time and you're about to scream and kick out at the nearest begging child....you meet an adorable family who invite you to their home, their Birthday party and then their wedding! Where to start....

I could start with the fact that I seem to have developed a 'head wobble' when talking....but I'll start at the beginning...

We flew into Mumbai (Bombay) on 29 March and spent only a day wandering around the city which was good. Neither of us were knocked over by culture shock which we had braced ourselves for.

We then started to head south, our aim being to eventually meet our friends Simon and Vicky in Kerela.

I thought a quick stop in Goa was a good idea as I'd heard from people what a beautiful place it is. Unfortunately we didn't know where in Goa. So at the airport we quickly consulted our Lonely Planet and decided that Kolva sounded like a nice place and not too far from the airport!

Oh my God!!! Once we had booked ourselves into the 'Williams Beach Resort', we looked around to find ourselves in Costa-del-Goa, with Rodney, Del-boy and Raquel proping up the bar! Despite exploring Kolva in the hope of being mistaken, we didn't find anything. So deciding not to waste anymore time, we jumped on the first plane out of there.....wallop!

ALEX: I did however manage a 9 dart finish to win the Wednesday night darts challenge. To top it all we came second in the meat raffle which is always a result....

GEORGE: We arrived in Cochin to meet our lovely pals Simon and Vicky (ello Si and V!). Respecting that in Kerela (India?), on the first day of every month it is forbidden to sell/drink alcohol, we drank our celebratary beer from teapots and milk jugs. It was really good to see them on their temporary turf.

We then headed to Allepey, where after a day of tough negotiations, we found our house boat and crew, and set off on our 3 day voyage of Kerela's backwaters.






Our daily routine consisted of: admiring the stunning morning views from our lounge chairs before moving to the table where breakfast was served. We then returned to our lounge chairs to carry on admiring the view until we were called back to the table where lunch was served...after which we returned again to the lounge chairs where afternoon tea was served. And then at around 8pm we were called to be seated and dinner was served. And lest I forget, we then retired to our lounge chairs to relax (some more) before bed.


All this for 3 days......it was amazing!!!


To make sure our brain power remained switched on we played lots of cards, and so our muscles did not deteriotrate, we did some shotput with coconuts (well I did anyway!).


ALEX: After so much time in one place (when I say one place, I mean a 6m x 15m 'place'), one starts to understand what life must me like doing a 'stretch' in Wandsworth nick. As the pictures below show the cross dressing that took place was merely in aid of the final night caberet laid on to honour our fantastic .......................... SERVANTS!!!!!!!!!

















GEORGE: And what better way to spend a Birthday. Big thanks to you Si and V and of course Alex for making it so special with pressies, cake and champagne!



The boat trip was perfect and recommended to all.






So after that mini holiday, we didn't hang around. We changed from summer gear into winter gear and flew right up North into the Himalayas, to Leh in Ladak.

'Jooooo-lay' everyone! (It means hello/goodbye/thankyou)



Leh is SPECTACULAR! You actually feel like you are in Tibet rather than India. The people are gorgeous, and because it was off season there, it was very chilled (relaxing as well as temp').

In a 4x4 we toured the mountains. A highlight was Prangong Lake, 130km wide and half in China. It was frozen. We took the opportunity to pose for our album cover for our group called 'Do What?' (said in a loud East London accent), first single release called 'Yorkshire Dales'! Unfortunately this is a 'you had to be there joke', and even then it probably wasn't funny, but we were all dizzy with altitude sickness!

The army were up for it though!











I've got to speed up a bit now....after Leh we tackled Delhi. NUTS!!!
People, dogs, cows, rickshaws, auto-rickshaws, horses, carts, cars and buses all coming at you from all directions and missing your toes by cm's. You either love the craze or hate it. I loved it...Alex didn't!


ALEX: Perhaps a little strong but not too far off the mark to be fair! Not being the most patient man in the world, it is at times a rather 'challenging' city ...............


GEORGE: Here we said goodbye to Si and V and carried on to Rajasthan.....two down. We went to Jaipur (jewellery shops)...


ALEX: After a lovely (if not a little too spicy) meal, we decided to walk home to digest our dinner. It was pretty dark and on a number of occassions the paving stones ended but the pavement continued and took the form of a dirt track. So when the same thing happened after about the fourth time, I (being in front, blazing our trail) thought nothing of it and stepped confidently off the paving stones, onto what I thought was another dirt track. It was only when I was almost up to my knees in human 'waste' (bearing in mind I was wearing shorts and Birkenstocks!), that it very quickly became clear the dirt track was not exactly what it said on the tin. George followed after me but managed to stop herself in time to keep one foot out of the sewer. A very smelly rickshaw ride and a shower involving a whole bottle of TCP later we were feeling relatively normal again!

GEORGE: before heading onto Jodhpur, the blue city, which I loved. So compact with lots of narrow streets.













On the train on the way there we met a father and his gorgeous children (remember I mentioned this at the beginning? How many of you have actually read this far?) After lots of chats and games of Ludo, we were invited to their house the following day for lunch. We both felt extremly lucky.


We were treated like celebrities. They all sat and watched just the two of us eat on our own, before we were dragged into the front room for dancing. We were both pretty embarrassed, but in these situations, you have no choice as saying 'no' is never an option. That includes when being offered more food, whisky and more dancing!

They then invited us to a family wedding (which I was sooooooo thrilled to receive. Of course we will be in China but to receive one is rare treat!). Instead they settled to us attending a Birthday party the following day.




The whole experience was magic. We were able to watch and take part in family traditions. Their hospitality was quite over whelming.

When it was time to leave, we were sent on our way with their blessing.













Back in Delhi, the one thing we still need to do before we leave is visit Agra to see the Taj Mahal! We are doing this tomorrow before we leave.

I feel relieved we have both made it through India in one piece and with our sanity still intact. And I've surprised myself by thinking I am actually going to miss it. For me, doses of India should be taken little and infrequently, but definetly taken. India really is a world of it's own.

ALEX: India has been a great experience and I have taken a lot from our time here - just as you think things can't get any worse - they do! That said, it's the completely random acts of completely selfless generosity on a number of levels that more than make the whole experience so worth while.

Well, having successfully been veggies for the last month - China will bring with it the prospect of something we have both been looking forward to for a while now - CRISPY DUCK PANCAKES!!!!!!

Relaxing in Koh Tao

ALEX: Having been away from Thailand for so long, it soon became apparent how much more developed and geared up for westerners the place is. After a rather spine crushing journey on what essentially was an under construction dirt track from Siem Reap to the Thai border on a hot, sweaty, five hour bus trip, we were greeted by a Rolling Stones tour bus (minus the obvious extra curricular activities that no doubt take place on this type of vehicle) which whisked us in luxurious comfort to Bangkok.

GEORGE: So.....for our final week in SE Asia (Boooooooooooooooo!), we decided we deserved a relaxing week on a beautiful Thai island (yeeeeeeeeeeahy!).












ALEX: Being the seasoned travellers that we now are, we decided to 'leave the city as soon as we can man' and jumped on an equally, if not more luxurious coach for the overnight trip to Chumpon, where we caught the high speed (complete with blacked out windows and go very, very faster stripes) catamaran to Koh Tao. It was the perfect way to arrive and despite a sprinkling of rain when we got off the boat, it was all we could have asked for - the sea was crystal clear, the sun was shining (five minute shower a thing of the past!), the sand was white, the palm trees were 'just like in the movies!'........ Will give you a minute to wipe your eyes/run to the loo to be sick.























Right, now you're back, I'll continue.

We stayed in a fantastic beach hut which although it had sand at the front of it, 'technically' wasn't on the beach but in my mind 15m away is as near as damn it. After spending a few days relaxing and getting used to doing even less than we have been doing for the last two and a bit months (took five, maybe six minutes and we were away) we took the plunge (see what I did there?!) and did our first two scuba dives of the week. The visibility wasn't as good as in Vietnam, although there was definitely more marine life to see which was great.























So after another day sitting on our backsides with me trying to stay evenly tanned and George trying to stay evenly not that red, I did my first wreck dive which was at the site of a merchant ship which sank about 20 years ago. In all honesty once we got down there, it wasn't actually all that great! It was so dark, I could just about see a bit of rope and what looked like er, something, but the exciting bit was that fact that we went down to 45m which is very humbling to say the least - especially when you realise that there is 44m of water above you and it's just you with a few pipes and a bit of air strapped to your back!

GEORGE: I added a few more 'fun dives' to my log book and went down to 23m this time. They were pretty cool. The best bit was chilling with a large sea turtle. I followed him (or her) for a little while which was magic!

ALEX: Being the adventurous types we also hired a couple of quad bikes (in truth, I was too much of a wimp to hire a scooter having never riden one before) to explore the island in style, and dedicated one afternoon to trying our best to look like the lead roles in a Club Med promotional DVD as we raced around the island laughing and joking like the ridiculously content young lovers we are - had it not been so bloody hot, I would have completed my outfit with a nice light knit merino number knotted over my chest. Still, it wasn't to be so a small damp patch on my back was far more fitting.











GEORGE: I know in the picture the road looks pretty flat, but at times, to get to the other side of the island, the roads were very bumpy and at 45 degree angles.

ALEX: So all in all, Koh Tao was AMAZING and definitely a great destination for a relaxing beach break with a few fun activities thrown in for good measure.













Well it's goodbye from SE Asia......

GEORGE: Nooooooooooooo!

ALEX:... and (as I write) hello India in less than 24 hours time!

GEORGE: OK then....

ALEX: With phase one as near as finished, we are both looking forward to the next chapter in our little jaunt around the globe and hope to send you all many more envy inducing emails and pictures which I'm sure you can't wait to receive!

GEORGE: XX

'ello' Cambodia

GEORGE: So we've made it to Cambodia....our forth country. We is flyin'!

Straight to Phnom Penh which is wicked!

A truely chilled sophisticated city which was a perfect surprise. This is infact somewhere I wouldn't mind living (btw Alex)

As all male travellers do, Alex is checking out the beard look - what do you reckon readers?

ALEX: it's gone now - far too itchy. That said it would appear it's the only place on my head where hair grows in any sort of reliable fashion! Did enjoy rubbing it with a pensive look on my face whilst trying to haggle with street vendors.

So we spent our days exploring, drinking in the Foreign Correspondents Club, celebrating 'International Womens Day' and visting the palace and museums - all despite the surpressing heat.

ALEX - great city to potter around - really enjoyed it.

We visited the 'killing fields' and the S21 prison which obviously left us feeling quite subdued - very thought provoking places.

ELEPHANTS!


We then headed north to Siem Ream - another fab city with plenty of cafes to chill in. Below is The Blue Pumkin if anyone is heading that way.

The highlight without question (for me anyway)here. We got up at 5AM so we could watch the sun rise over Angkor Wat = a goose bumping moment.

ALEX: Me too!

It is massive. Everyone who hasn't already needs to go and see for themselves.

The number of temples in the area and the detailed stonework is so impressive. I went back for a second day on my own........Alex can only take so many temples.

Alex: That is the biggest understatement!

ALEX - Loved Cambodia and everything about the place. The people are so friendly and the kids never stop smiling. Phnom Penh is without question a surprise new entry on my favourite cities list. It's like a toned down city with wide roads that aren't full of traffic and great open spaces to relax in. As for moving there one day, let's wait and see shall we......

Vietnam we love you....

GEORGE: Gimmie a 'V'.....gimmie an 'I'....gimmie an 'E'.....and so on and so forth!!!!!
Yes, we made it to Vietnam - and I love everything about it! So, starting from the top...

Hanoi is full to the brim if not spilling over with character; people, scooters, colour and noise everywhere. We have been lucky enough to celebrate NY twice this year as we were there for their Tet celebrations.













We watched fire works by the big lake before being invited to join a family celebration at the bar we had entered looking for a beer. We ate their traditional food, which I have to say was thoroughly disgusting (even Alex wretched but had to hold it together - think Pedigree Chum!), before drinking and singing until the early hours. This was then followed shortly by the realisation we had been locked out of our hotel and a quick contemplation of being homeless in Hanoi - surprisingly I was actually quite curious about the prospect! (we did get in eventually though.)

Five people on a scooter is the most I've seen so far.

Being travellers on a tight budget! as well as timescale, we then flew down to Danang, to reach Hoi An. A gorgeous small french influenced town full of silk, tailors, restaurants and all the good photo dream stuff. We explored on bikes, got a few bits and pieces made and ate their very tasty local food.

We were in a gallery we heard some almighty singing/shouting....so loud! I finally tracked down where it was coming from and found these two children sitting in their wee plastic chairs shouting their hearts out. Karaoke seems to be very popular in the home.

If you lookclosely the beach is actually really busy......all the Vietnamise are all crammed under the palm trees.

A painful overnight bus journey took us down to Nha Trang which I wasn't too taken by until I discovered I did actually like scuba diving. We found a brilliant school (called CoCo for anyone planning a visit) and I was lucky enough to have one on one tuition for three days swimming in amongst coral to gain my Open Water qualification. Alex did his Advanced. It's amazing....as was the visibility. I saw octopus, eel (1.5m long), flat fish, clown fish...oooo...all sorts! I can now scuba up to 18m and already planning to do more when we head back to Thailand.

The photo of me in the scuba outfit.... does Charlie's Angels immediately pop into your head?

Me with my scuba instructer.....as you can see, she thought the temp was pretty cold!!!!!!!!

From here we took a bus up into the mountains to Dalat - again, nice french influence. Took a look around on the back of a motorbike before deciding to do a two day bike trip to HCMC. This was a great move. We saw so much of rural Vietnam which finally quenched my thirst.

I had to put this picture in of Alex with this woman (owner of the guest house we stayed in), because not only did she really fancy him and spend all night staring at him, but she also thought he was Indian! This made me laugh so much. I said I didn't mind if he wanted to change direction in life and run this B&B with her instead! He declined.

So if you want a test of bravery, enter HCMC on the back of a motorbike. Heavens! It is nuts! My first impression of HCMC is a mahoosive helping of mayhem, with a generous drizzle of pollution and a steaming hot cherry on top! Crossing 4 lanes of on-coming scooters is just like a computer game and actually very enjoyable.... I guess it is like playing chicken but with a cheeky confidence that they will actually miss you. So, we did all the tourist stuff; the war museum, Cu Chi tunnels and the Mekong Delta.

Vietnam really has been FAB from top to bottom. The people have been so friendly, the teeny weeny children yet again are gorgeous and constantly wave whilst shouting 'helloooooooooooo' and all in all it is beautiful.

Oh, what a competitive materialistic life we lead in London - don't worry though, I haven't changed. It will only take me a few days to get back into the swing of it!

I hope this wasn't too long and boring - I've tried to keep it brief. Feeling very sad about leaving here, but excited about the next venture. We are now in Chau Doc on the border to Cambodia. Tomorrow we are up at 6AM to catch a boat along the Mekong to take us to Phnom Penh.

Only me this time, as Alex has just discovered messenger.

Sorry if the photos all seem a bit random......this seems so take so much time!

LOL XXXXXX